Hey there Joey, I am replacing one piece cranks with 3 piece cranks. My problem is removing the one piece crank and the bearing cups that seem to be pressed in into the frame. I have tried everything to beat them out, but no luck. How does a pro do it???????
Darren 

Hey Darren,

I'm assuming you have the crank out of the BB already.  If so, read on below.  If not, remove the left side pedal first (threaded backwards) and then the locknut and bearing race on the left side (also threaded backwards). Then thread the crank out through the frame.

Quite honestly, the way to get those bearing cups out of there is to pound 'em out.  Take a short length of thick metal pipe, or a piece of brass, or anything that will sit nicely on the back side of the cups, and use it to pound the cups out from the other side.  Give a few good whacks with a hammer on the other end of the pipe, then move the pipe 180 degrees to the other side of the cup.  This way you're not driving the cup out crooked (which makes it much tighter).  Make sure you don't tear up the inside of the frame - the BB shell - especially if it's an
aluminum frame.  

The cups may well be very tight and it might take some really hard hammering.  If so, have someone else hold the frame so you can concentrate on holding and hitting the pipe correctly.  If you miss and hit the frame, you'll be ticked at yourself.

When you put the new cups in, you'll likely have a hard time as well.  Make sure you clean and grease the frame's bearing cup surfaces, and also the bearing cups.  Then you have two options - place the frame flat
on the ground, set the bearing cup on the frame, and use a 2x4 and hammer to pound the cups in one at a time.  (Don't forget the spacer in the middle, if your crank comes with one!)  The 2x4 is to protect the bearing, and you MUST make sure the bearing cup is going in straight. Your second option is to fashion a press out of a big bolt, nut, and thick washers, pulling both bearings in at the same time with a large wrench on each side of your homemade press.  I personally would just use a hammer and 2x4, unless I was having some major problems.

Hope that helps.  Let me know if you have more questions!
Joey

Hey Joey, my name is the same and im having probs with my bottom bracket and crank. The Prob is I lost my left side crank bolt and my crank is literally falling apart on me the BB is a euro and between the right sde bearings and my frame theres a gap about the width of a memory card for a digital camera I have no tools of my own to speak of, and my local bike shop just shut down. What can i do to get my bike ready for the Regional in Indy in 2 weeks?

Hi Joe,

The best solution would be to get your bike to a shop, somewhere, anywhere, so that they can (a) put your bike back together, and (b) put a new bolt in there so the crank doesn't come apart again. Don't know how far you are from Fizz'z, but the guys there can certainly help you out.

If the best solution isn't a possibility, then try this. Keep in mind that I'm not particularly recommending this, because it's wrong on about seven different levels, but if you have to do it, it may work.

You said that "...between the right sde bearings and my frame theres a gap". I'm assuming you mean there's a gap between the frame and the threaded euro cup, which houses the bearings. This needs to be taken care of first. Pull your crankset out of the BB. Grab whatever tool you have that might fit around the cup - channel locks, etc. - put a rag over the cup, and screw the cup back into the frame. Keep in mind that the right-side BB cup is reverse-threaded - that is, it threads in counter-clockwise. If the cup has wrench flats on it, try to use those so that you don't mar the cup - normally soft aluminum - too badly.

Once that cup is tight, check and make sure the left-side cup is tight as well (the left-side cup is threaded normally). If so, slide the spindle, with the right-side crank and sprocket attached, back through the BB, and slide on the left crankarm. Make sure all spacers are in the same location they were originally. Now, you're really going to need to get a new bolt somewhere - try the local hardware store if your local shop is out of business. Take the spindle with you so they can test different bolts in the threads. Tighten the new bolt down, check the right-side bolt for tightness, and then tighten crankarm pinch bolts if you have a crank with pinch bolts. For example, Redline cranks and Primo cranks have pinch bolts. Profile cranks and DK cranks do not. If there are no pinch bolts, you're done after you tighten the bolts on either end of the spindle. Make sure the crank spins freely, or at least spins. If it doesn't, there are tons of possible causes, and you really need to take it to a knowledgeable shop to get it figured out. It'd be pretty hard to diagnose via email.

Hope this helped you out some. If you have any other questions, feel free to email!

Joey

My bike is making some noise what is it?
Jesus Sotelo Inside Sales, Seattle Bike Supply

Dear Mr. Sotelo,

I'm pretty sure the noise you are hearing is actually caused by what's left of your brain falling out of your ears and hitting the sidewalk.

Try plugging all orifices in your head with cotton balls, ride, and see what happens.

Thanks for emailing,
Joey
(Note: Jesus Sotelo is a rep for one of Fizz'z suppliers and sent this as a joke.  Joey decided to joke him back, hence the rude reply.)

Whats up! I have a question. Umm, I ride an Eastern Shovelhead, & I bent my chain wheel on a curb. I wanted to get a more sturdy one, and maybe smaller if possible. The one I have now is 36 teeth. Any suggestions?!??! I also may need a bulkier chain..
Thanks!!
Corey

Hey Corey,

If my memory serves me correctly, the Shovelhead's stock sprocket is a thin stamped-steel affair - not good for sprocket stalls, etc. In a 36 tooth, I would recommend Odyssey's Utility Sprocket. They make two versions: one made from 6061 aluminum, and one made from 7075 aluminum. The 7075 is a little lighter and more expensive. Both versions are easy to use with Odyssey's Utility Guard - a durable bolt-on sprocket guard for stalls/grinds.

Other good street sprockets would include: Odyssey Compact, S&M Little Man, the Tree sprocket, and the MacNeil Guard sprocket. All are available through Fizz'z.

If you actually wanted to get a smaller sprocket, you would also have to get a smaller rear cog in order to keep your gear ratio the same. On the Shovelhead, the rear drive assembly is a freewheel, which means you're limited to a 13 tooth minimum. For a 13 tooth FW, the match is a 36 tooth sprocket - hence the stock configuration.

However, if you have replaced or are willing to replace your rear wheel with a cassette wheel - such as an Odyssey Hazard or PrimoPro Cassette - you could go as low as 25-9. That is, a 25 tooth sprocket, 9 tooth rear cog. The only real street benefit to smaller sprockets is more clearance for coping, curbs, etc. It's up to you if you want to spend the dollars to upgrade.

Bulkier chains? Go with a KMC Kool Chain. Not too heavy, super-sturdy, under 20 bucks, and it looks nice.
Thanks for emailing!
Joey